Table of contents:
- Acid peelings: what types are there?
- Difference Between Fruit Acid and Salicylic Acid:
- Acid peelings: what do you need to know beforehand
- Are acid peels also suitable for sensitive skin? That's what the expert says
- Who are acid peels not suitable for?
- Self-test: acid peeling with fruit acid (AHA) - these results can be expected
Acid peelings help the skin to regenerate and regenerate. But are they dangerous? And what do you have to consider? We dared the self-test.
Wrinkles, pigment spots, pimples - acid peelings can help, but they also sound a little dangerous. We remember the scene in "Sex And The City" in which Samantha comes bright red from her treatment. If you are a little informed, you can definitely use an acid peeling at home. And we wouldn't be us if we hadn't researched and done a self-test right away.
Acid peelings: what types are there?
A basic distinction must be made between acid peelings and mechanical peelings, i.e. those that remove the flakes of skin using small particles. Acid peelings work differently in the skin, depending on the type. But they all have the same goal: Dead skin cells are removed, the skin regenerated, inflammation inhibited and your face is ready for the mega-glow that we all want so much.
Difference Between Fruit Acid and Salicylic Acid:
In principle, a distinction is made between fruit acids (AHA) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHA). BHA is better known as salicylic acid. The advantage: salicylic acid is fat-loving, penetrates very deeply and has an anti-inflammatory effect. So ideal for acne or blemishes. AHAs, i.e. fruit acids, are very diverse. They occur naturally in many plants and their fruits. Citric acid, tartaric acid, carbon dioxide are some of them. But also glycolic acid, lactic acid and malic acid or mandelic acid belong to the fruit acids. If you are using fruit acids for the first time, you are in good hands with a mildly formulated lactic acid product.
Acid peelings: what do you need to know beforehand
- Salicylic acid (BHA) must not be used if there is an intolerance to aspirin. Aspirin consists mainly of salicylic acid.
- Which acid is best for you, you should clarify beforehand with a dermatologist or visit a cosmetic studio.
- If you use acid peels, daily sun protection is an absolute MUST - even in winter, even if you are not outside often, every day.
- If you use an acid scrub at home, test it on a sensitive area on your arm beforehand.
- Don't use acid peels too often. Your skin develops a tolerance - but that takes time. You should start with acid peelings once every two weeks.
- Increase the exposure time only slowly. Even if acid peelings are good for your skin - too much can go badly in your pants.
- You should use acid peels in the evening. The skin is often reddened after use.
- A slight tingling sensation is normal during use. If the burning sensation is severe, acid peelings should be washed off immediately.
- When washing up, first gently remove the peeling with a damp washcloth. Then clean your face with lukewarm water. Be careful not to get the scrub in your eyes.
- Many complain of an initial aggravation with acid peelings. Keep an eye on that and ask the pros if you're not sure. Irritation of the skin can indicate that you cannot tolerate the peeling.
Are acid peels also suitable for sensitive skin? That's what the expert says
"In general, we use acids to stimulate skin cell division so that more cells are formed. The skin receives the impulse to restructure itself and is repaired in depth. I find gentle acids even better than mechanical peelings with grains. The microspheres the classic scrubs are sharp-edged when viewed under the microscope. Sensitive skin can be strengthened with the right chemical peeling, "says master cosmetician Vera Pöllabauer from Babor Spa Vienna.
Who are acid peels not suitable for?
- If your dermatologist has explicitly advised against it.
- If you have open skin or sores on your face.
- If you are struggling with skin diseases such as rosacea or eczema, as well as neurodermatitis.
Self-test: acid peeling with fruit acid (AHA) - these results can be expected
I tried the "AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution" from "The Ordinary"
The "AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution" from "The Ordinary" is currently trading hot on TikTok. But caution is advised with this very strong acid peeling. On the one hand, it is dosed quite high, on the other hand, it combines both fruit and salicylic acid. It tingled a lot when I applied it. The first few times I only used it for 5 minutes instead of 10 and felt my way slowly. No real difference was noticeable in the first three applications. The skin was smooth, fine-pored, but also sometimes a bit more sensitive than usual. A few blackheads could be seen on the forehead for the first few weeks, but it was the famous first aggravation. From the fourth application onwards, the forehead became super smooth and the other impurities gradually disappeared. But care and lifestyle also contribute - you shouldn't expect too much from an acid peel.
Perioral dermatitis from too much care and acid peels
I used the scrub once a week and slowly increased to a second application a week. I also used active ingredients such as niacinamide and retinol, which first gave my skin a mega-glow, but then I got the bill for my frequent uses: Perioral dermatitis, better known as rose of the mouth or "stewardess disease", was the result of over-cared for skin. That means: If you use too many products with effective active ingredients, the skin is so irritated that zero therapy and a visit to the dermatologist was announced for the next few weeks. You can find out more about the skin disease here. Still, I'm a big fan of fruit acid peels. I also discovered mandelic acid and the much milder lactic acid for myself. But: use sparingly is the motto!